Wingman Foil Club

This week's episode was meant to be a guide to beginner gear, but it turned into more of a conversation with Josh from The Foil Shop about his thoughts on beginner gear and a discussion of some of his inventory (which is why I clicked the AD icon for this topic).

So, I'm going to go more in depth with my specific suggestions here and possibly turn the info into a comprehensive database. If you are an experienced winger, please reply to this post with your thoughts, and I'll try and incorporate them.

THIS DOCUMENT IS A WORK IN PROGRESS

BOARDS

• Board technology is pretty well-established thanks to windsurfing, surfing, and kiteboarding. There are perfectly good boards from a couple years ago. You do not need to spend a bunch of money on a board. The main purpose of a board is to create speed on the water and allow the foil to lift off. However, board shape DOES affect riding characteristics when up on foil; therefore, no, you can't just ride a piece of plywood.

• TRADITIONAL WING BOARDS have been relatively short and wide in shape with variations of tail shapes, rails, and bottom contours. This Naish Hover is a good example of a classic wing board shape:
  
  
  naish board.jpg
  
  This shape is still my personal favorite shape, and it is 100% what I would recommend someone learn on. In my opinion, all of the tails, rails, and bottoms are mostly hype and you'll be fine with any generally flat bottom board from a major brand. If you can get a board with more volume in the nose and the foil tracks set further forward than the earliest boards, I would recommend that. If you want to use foot straps eventually, make sure the board has the foot strap setup you want to use (some boards have really stupid foot strap insert placement).
  
  PROS:
  • Stable and easy to stand up on and balance on
  • Many cheap used or close-out models now that many people are moving on to downwind boards
  • Tried and true design
  • Easy to fit inside most vehicles
  CONS:
  • Supposedly harder to build speed and release from the water when getting on foil
  • Potential to "outgrow" the board if you get too big a board
  POSSIBLE CHOICES:
  • Naish Hover, Slingshot Wingcraft V1 or V2 (V2 has more forward tracks), Takuma BK EBS, Fanatic Sky Wing, Armstrong FG Wing SUP, and many many others.
  *@Captainstoke61 has a Naish beginner foil board for sale for a very good price here. It is absolutely a good choice for someone to learn on.

• INFLATABLE BOARDS are another option for beginner wing boards. These boards are pumped up with the same pump as your wing. These boards got a bad rap early on due to some bad early designs and people claiming they "stick" to the water. However the second generation of these boards are very good. I owned one when I was learning, and I have almost nothing bad to say about them (I wish I still had it actually). The most important thing is to get a reputable brand and second generation model which can be identified by a long baseplate / foil track that extends under both feet.
  
  
  slingshot-i-fly.jpg
  
  I personally think these boards are very good at getting on foil because they are lightweight and sit high on the water. Their major downside in my eyes is that they are relatively unstable on the water. They have a "corky" feel, which makes it hard to jibe when not on foil.
  
  PROS:
  • Usually very cheap
  • Very transportable
  • Lightweight
  • Soft on the knees or if you hit your head on the board
  CONS:
  • Less stable when not on foil
  • Pumping them up can be a pain
  • Could develop a leak
  • Supposedly they don't release from the water as easily as hard boards
  CHOICES:
  • Slingshot I-Fly (has foot strap inserts), Naish Hover Air (no straps), RRD Beluga Air, Gong

• DOWNWIND BOARDS are the latest trend in not just wing boards but foil boards in general. The idea is that the streamlined and displacement hull allows the board to gain speed through the water without much wind or wave energy and allow the foil to lift. There boards were originally created for downwind SUP foiling by Dave Kalama and are now becoming very popular for light wind winging.
  
  
  downwindboard.jpg
  
  I think these boards are a really bad choice for a beginner winger because they are very skinny and unstable to stand on even in flat water. In choppy water (which happens when the wind blows), it becomes even trickier. I would only recommend a downwind board to someone that lives in a VERY light wind location and is willing to absolutely suffer through the learning process. Do not come crying to me if you buy a downwind board and struggle to learn to wing.
  
  PROS:
  • Can make getting on foil much easier, especially with higher volume boards and light winds
  CONS:
  • Very hard to balance on
  • Very expensive
  • Difficult to transport
  CHOICES:
  • Kalama, Freedom Foil Boards, custom shapers, and pretty much every other brand now

• HYBRID BOARDS are essentially miniature downwind boards that don't have as extreme a shape.
  
  
  hybridboard.jpg
  
  I still don't think this is a good option for a beginner, but if you are looking for a board you can grow into, and you think this is something you might want, it could probably be done. It might require learning some different techniques for starting like the "Stink Bug" start.
  
  PROS:
  • Might be able to suffer through learning and grow into this board
  • Some of the advantages of a downwind board without the excessive length or really narrow unstable footing
  CONS:
  • Still somewhat unstable
  • Expensive
  • Tricky to decide the right size for a beginner
  CHOICES:
  • Sunova Carver, Cabrinha Swift, customs

WHAT BOARD SIZE SHOULD YOU GET?
The standard advice is to get a board that is 20L above your body weight in kilograms.

FOR EXAMPLE: If you weigh 200 pounds, that equals roughly 90 kilos, and you would want to consider a 110L board.

200 pounds = 90 kilograms + 20 liters => 110 liter board

Now that being said, I don't think that rule works for everyone. If you are really small, like 100 pounds, the rule would say you should learn on a 65 liter board. I think that would feel REALLY small to any beginner. On the flip side, if you are really heavy, like 240 pounds, a 130 liter board might not feel big enough either. If any physicists or engineers want to provide a formula or graph that shows buoyancy as a function of board volume versus weight, that would be really awesome and above my pay grade!

The 20L above your weight in kilogram rule works best for average-sized people that are somewhat fit and maybe even have a background in windsports. WHEN IN DOUBT, GO WITH A BIGGER BOARD (this rule also applies to foils and wings). If you are older, out of shape, or a complete beginner, consider a board 30-40 L above your weight in kilograms. If you are an expert windsurfer, super fit, and a sucker for punishment, you might be able to go as low as your weight in kilograms, and keep that board forever as a light wind board.

But it has been shown time and time again that starting on a bigger board will allow you to progress more quickly in the early stages.

For the record, I started on a 75 liter board (minus 15 liters from my body weight in kilograms). It was an absolute mission until I discovered the stink bug start. But once I did, and with my background in windsurfing and kiteboarding, I was able to very quickly progress and could still be riding that same board as a daily driver. Would I recommend it to you? I don't know. How much do you like to suffer? 😂

FOILS

• Foils are still experiencing major changes in design every year, but we have finally reached a point where there are many good foil options from a couple years back available on close-out deals or used. I believe we are still far from reaching the perfect foil, but there are plenty of "good enough" foils now.
  
  The main question you will have to ask yourself is "Do I want to buy the cheapest used foil available to learn on or should I buy a nicer foil system that I can grow into?" followed by "What size foil do I need?" Let's break it down, but before we do that, let's go over some basic foil terminology we might need.

FOIL TERMINOLOGY

• A: MAST LENGTH - The distance from the bottom of the board to the foil plane.

• B: WIDTH / SPAN - The width of the foil measured from one wing tip to the other in a latitudinal direction.

• C: CHORD - The width of a foil going from front to back in the longitudinal direction.

• D: FUSELAGE / FUSE LENGTH - The distance from the back of the front foil wing to the rear foil wing.

• E: REAR FOIL / STAB - The smaller foil wing at the back of the fuselage which provides counter lift and stabilizes the front foil.

• F: THICKNESS - The thickness of a foil from the top to bottom vertically. Oftentimes, a direct correlation to foil volume.

• G: CAMBER / CONCAVE - The shape of a foil from front to back. Imagine your hand flat on a table. Now keeping the base of your palm on the table, start bring your fingertips toward your palm. The arch and empty space that forms is the camber / concave. The more camber the more lift per foil size but at the cost of speed.

• SURFACE AREA - The width of the foil multiplied by the average chord. In the past this measurement was a way of deciding which foils had the most lift. Large surface areas like 2100 cm2 were recommended for learning, but foils have changed a lot since then and many other factors matter such as width, thickness, and camber. Confused yet?

• ASPECT RATIO - A function of the foil's width over the foil's average chord. The higher the aspect ratio, the skinnier the foil. The lower the aspect ratio, the fatter a foil. High aspect = hot dog. Low aspect = hamburger. The Vyper in the pictures above was once considered high aspect, but these days would be considered medium aspect at AR 6.

Now that we have a common language, let's address the first question: "Do I want to buy the cheapest used foil available to learn on or should I buy a nicer foil system that I can grow into?"



CHEAP MASSIVE LOW ASPECT FOILS have historically been the foil of choice for learning. I learned on the SLINGSHOT HOVERGLIDE INFINITY 99 (however at the time it wasn't particularly cheap). The 99 represents the foil's width at basically 1 meter wide. It has a surface area of 2371 cm2 and a very low aspect ratio of 4.1. It also has a ton of thickness and volume:


I still think this is a totally viable option to learn on... I just wouldn't spend much money on it. You can probably find a brand new kit for $600 or a used kit for $300-$400. If you were going to go this route I would shoot for no more than $350 dollars all included and expect to resell it for no more than a couple hundred bucks or plan to give it to another newby. If you go this route, I would ONLY get the Infinity 99. Even the Infinity 84 starts to lose its low end lift and glide very quickly. The Infinity 76 requires A LOT of wind for its size (~1600 cm2). This is because foil width / span is one of the most important measurements in terms of the amount of lift and glide a foil has, and the Infinity 76 is only 76 cm wide. I would also get the 48 rear foil wing which mounts on the bottom of the fuse because it is more stable than the 42 cm rear foil wing pictured above which mounts on top of the fuse (more confusing right?)

PROS:

• Excellent low end performance - it has a very low stall speed and lifts very early. I never had trouble getting on foil even at 200+ pounds

• It actually is not a bad foil. (Wake Thief even has a video dockstarting it almost as well as an AXIS 1150)

• Cheap. Probably the cheapest kit you can get that works

• The turned down wing-tips on both the front and rear foil are excellent for learning and will keep you from cutting yourself or popping your wing

CONS:

• This foil is heavy. It's maybe the heaviest aluminum mast I've used. But it is stiff... so that's something

• The foil has some weird fittings like the cap that goes into the front wing. I stripped a lot of those mast caps and had to get replacements.

• The mast to fuse connection is simply two pieces of aluminum butted up against one another. It's fine... but make sure to get some spare stainless steel bolts and change them out every once in a while.

• This is not a high end performance foil. It is slow, not particularly efficient, and just not that clever. But it works. It definitely works.

OTHER POSSIBLE GIANT CHEAP FOIL CHOICES:

• GoFoil Maliko 200/280

• Armstrong HS 1850 (even used, old Armstrong is expensive)

• F-One Gravity 2200 FCT

• Other low aspect foils in the 2000 cm2 range with aluminum masts

FOILS YOU CAN GROW INTO are another option for someone that wants to try to only buy once. And to that person, I would say, "Good luck." It's not an easy thing to do. Foils are VERY complex and even a small 1 degree change in the angle of the rear foil wing will completely change the way a foil feels. When you first start foiling, you want something very slow and stable that lifts at a very low take-off speed. Then, when you progress, you want something more lively and fast. But, hey, if you think you're gonna be a foil prodigy, I'm happy to give you some suggestions. I can't go over every possible option but here are a couple possibilities. These options will definitely work better for smaller riders than bigger riders in the learning stages:

ONOFOIL SWIFT 200 / 230

Onofoil is a smaller brand that has largely been overlooked by the foil community at large. As a result, they often have some killer deals on really good foils. The foil set-up includes a very good carbon fiber mast, but the fuselage is aluminum. The Swift 200 is an excellent foil with good lift that you'll be able to use even when you're a proficient foiler on lighter wind days and for downwinding and riding swell.


The "200" stands for a surface area of 200 in2 or 1290 cm2 (Yes, to make things more confusing, some companies name their foils by surface area and others use width. Some companies also use inches while others use centimeters. Great fun, right?) Even though the Swift 200 is almost half the surface area of the Infinity 99, they both have a similar wingspan. The Swift 200 has an AR of 7.4 and its design allows it to glide as much or more than the infinity 99, especially if you keep the speed up. The downside is the Swift 200 probably takes more speed to lift off. But the advantage of these higher aspect foils (especially the ones that are thick and wide) is that they are actually very stable, which can make learning easier. The other downside is that higher aspect foils don't turn as well as low aspect / less wide foils. If you're a bigger rider (around 200 pounds), I would opt for the Swift 230.

There are 2 main reasons I chose to talk about this foil:

1. The Onofoil comes with a great carbon mast, and once you become really good, you can add on the M800 for high wind and big swell, which is one of the best foils I've ridden in that size.
2. Josh at The Foil Shop has a Swift 200 kit for sale at a really good price right now.

PROS:

• Good kit for a good price

• Good medium to light wind foils, and an excellent higher wind foil

• Full carbon except for fuse

CONS:

• Smaller companies are always at risk of not having future products

• You won't be able to brag about being on the latest and greatest $3000 foil

UNIFOIL PROGRESSION 200

Yes, I ride Unifoil, and they sometimes give me discounts. I guess I'll have to click the AD icon again. But the reason I want to talk about them is because they are a pretty cool brand. Unifoil focuses on foils that are fun to ride. And they have an excellent carbon mast, the Katana. The other thing about Unifoil is, even though they are a high end brand, their resale value is not that good for whatever reason, so you can often find a full carbon kit on Facebook Marketplace for around 1000 dollars. And it's easiest for me to talk about foils I know well and that I know Josh at The Foil Shop has for sale. I'm going to talk about the Progression 200 because that is the lowest stall speed foil Unifoil offers at this time, and it's the best option for learning, but you could potentially learn on a Vyper 190 or Hyper2 250, and those foils would be really cheap on the used market or from Unifoil at a discount. Unifoil also offers an aluminum mast and fuselage option to save money. They are both absolutely fine for most riders.



The Progression 200 is only around 1290 cm2, but it has a wing span slightly over 1 meter and an AR of 8.3. The foil is pretty thick, so it allows you to get up at a very low speed, and it is super stable while also being really fun to turn. This foil was made to downwind on garbage wind chop, so it's also very easy to wing. And once you get good at winging, you can also use this foil for downinding with the wing, SUP, or in really light winds. I have no doubt an average sized rider could easily learn to wing on this foil, and even a very large rider could probably learn fairly easily on this foil.

PROS:

• Very low stall speed and easy predictable lift while still offering utility once you are proficient

• Compatible with other excellent foils like the Progression 125, Vyper 90, and Hyper2 210

• Excellent mast and full carbon kit

• Unifoil are cool dudes

CONS:

• The Progression 200 is a new foil, so it is expensive (but you could consider other large Unifoil foils, and probably learn on them too)

• Not many cons, honestly

I can't cover every foil system or brand, but the main takeaways from Foils You Could Possibly Grow Into include:

• Choose a system that is well-regarded and has a foil you can learn on then use on light wind days but is also compatible with more advanced foils
• Look for a foil system with a good carbon mast and full kit for around $1000 used or on closeout
• Try to get a system that hasn't changed their attachments, so that you can upgrade just the front wing when a new foil is released

MODULAR FOIL SYSTEMS are an expansion on the last point I made above. Some foil companies have attempted to keep their foil system compatible no matter which foil you choose from beginner to expert. No brand is completely modular that I know of, but AXIS is probably the closest. AXIS offers a huge selection of foils, and aside from two different sized fuses (the Red one for the largest foils and the Black one for the rest of the foils), every piece of kit can be interchanged. They also have a very cheap good aluminum mast. AXIS offers a beginner set-up called the SES 1040 (for big riders... there is a smaller version for lighter weight riders) that you can purchase as an all-in-one kit and not stress about, but it is still modular with the rest of their offerings. However, I am going to cover two of their best beginner setups in my opinion because it's easier to show the benefits of a modular system.

AXIS BSC 1060


The Axis BSC 1060 is a GREAT beginner option. At over 1 meter in width, 1800 cm2 in area, AR 6.25, and a thick profile, this foil will get anyone of any size on foil in light wind (there is a bigger one too!). I know some big riders that refuse to sell this foil because it's such a faithful companion. This foil pairs with the Red fuse. I recommend the Short or Regular fuse for a stable ride when learning. Contact AXIS to determine the best rear foil wing. Then you can add on a 75 cm aluminum 19mm thick aluminum mast for only $100 dollars, which is super cheap, and that will allow you to buy another longer mast (82 cm or 90 cm) once you progress for only another $100 dollars because the mast is modular with the fuse, base plate, and "doo-dad" (the AXIS "doo-dad" is a clever piece of kit that connects the mast to the fuse with a virtually unbreakable connection). Then once you become a proficient foiler you can upgrade to an intermediate foil like the PNG 910b or HPS 1050 (they both require the Black fuse though). And then when you become an expert you can upgrade to the HPS 880, ART Pros, or Spitfires! AXIS's greatest strength is their variety of excellent foils, but it can be intimidating when you first get started. Hence their SES series.


AXIS PNG 1150



Another option to start with in the AXIS family is the PNG 1150. At 115 cm wide and an AR of 7.7, this foil is a light wind and gliding MACHINE. This foil will also get anyone on foil in almost any wind. The downside to this foil compared to the BSC 1060 is that it doesn't turn as well. The upside of the PNG 1150 is written right in the name: Pump aNd Glide. This foil set some of the early dockstart pump foil records. I used it on my Mountain Lakes Road Trip video to get foiling in next to nothing mountain breezes. This foil will also be a great downwinding and SUP downwinding foil if you decide to pursue that discipline.

MODULAR SYSTEM PROS:

• Choose the foil you want to get started, and when you're ready to upgrade, just replace the pieces you need to replace

CONS:

• In reality, the most expensive pieces of the system are the ones you want to change (the front foil, and upgrading to a carbon fiber mast)

• AXIS's catalogue can be overwhelming

Speaking of overwhelming, are you overwhelmed yet? Don't worry we're almost done. Lets cover something easy: masts.

MASTS

• MAST LENGTH: When starting out, a shorter mast will be easier. Something around 70 cm will get you up on foil. If you're buying an affordable mast like the AXIS aluminum, you can buy a 70 cm mast to learn, and then pick up a longer mast once you are proficient or if you want to ride in big swell. But if you're buying a more expensive carbon mast, you might want to consider buying a medium length mast around 82 cm because it could be another $1000 dollars to purchase a second carbon mast. PRO TIP: Don't forget to take into account your local spots. If you live somewhere with very shallow water like the Gulf Coast, you might even have to get a 65 cm mast! Ask around to your local foilers before you purchase a mast.
• CARBON VERSUS ALUMINUM: Rob, did you say $1000 dollars just for a carbon mast? Yes. Yes, I did. In fact the higher end AXIS mast is more like $3000 for one single mast.
  
  
  axis-masts.jpg
  
  "Wow, is a carbon mast really worth that much money?" No. Absolutely not. 99% of foilers would be totally fine with the AXIS aluminum mast. Advantages of the carbon mast are less corrosion (so you don't have to rinse your gear after being in the salt water) and potentially a thinner profile for less drag. In the past, carbon masts weighed less, but now they are putting so much carbon fiber into these new masts to make them stiff that the weight savings over an aluminum mast is negligible. The foil companies argue that these new ultra high modulus masts are whatever percent stiffer than aluminum masts, but a good aluminum mast is very stiff IN ALL DIRECTIONS. This topic gets pretty dense, so I'll leave it at that.
  
  Suffice it to say that, I am a pretty heavy foiler and sometimes ride big foils. The AXIS aluminum mast is totally fine. If you're going to ride an absolutely GIANT foil, there may be some benefit to the new ultra ultra high modulus carbon masts, but in no way does it justify the price. That being said, I do love my tapered Unifoil Katana carbon mast because it is more efficient in the water. Do I think the average rider will notice the difference in the Unifoil aluminum mast? No.
  
  Unifoil and AXIS both have very good aluminum masts. Some of the earlier aluminum masts were not stiff and sometimes bent.

Okay. Phew! We can finally answer our second most important question: What size foil do I need?

It really depends on how much you weigh. That is the most important factor. If you are significantly over 200 pounds, don't try to start with the Onofoil package I mentioned above. Get yourself the AXIS BSC 1060 or PNG 1150. You need that lift. However, if you weigh 120 pounds, then even the Onofoil 200 might seem like a lot of lift!

But just like I mentioned in the BOARDS discussion, I strongly believe that when in doubt, you should err on the "too big" side rather than "too small." A big foil will allow you to learn in lighter wind and get up on foil when the board is going slower. Even though I learned on a small board, I had a giant ~2400 cm2 foil to lift me up out of the water the second I had any board speed or power in the wing. Everyone wants to believe they are going to be shredding on Day 1 of foiling and that they should purchase a top of the line expert foil, but that is not reality. Plus, big foils will always come in handy when the wind is light or you decide to try SUP downwinding.



THIS ALL SEEMS REALLY CONFUSING

It is. That's why I've spent the last few hours typing this whole thing out in addition to making a YouTube video talking about the topic. There are so many factors that go into choosing the right foil, and there are an almost infinite number of options to choose from. But take advantage of the free coaching and advice I'm offering here on the Wingman Foil Club Forum. Post up a reply with your age, weight, prior windsports experience, and maybe even a foil package you're thinking of buying. I'll give you my honest opinion on if it will work for you. Or if you want, I can suggest a foil for you. Josh at The Foil Shop is another resource for you, and he'd be happy to build you a custom package that works for you.

This is the WINGMAN FOIL CLUB, and I am here to help you learn to foil!

WINGS

• Wings are an amazing invention that have really opened up foiling to the masses. But boy oh boy, do I have a love hate relationship with wings. Foils are sharp, and I've often described wings as "a couple balloons wrapped in tissue paper." It's a bit of an exaggeration, but foils and wings definitely DO NOT MIX!
  
  PRO TIP: Be sure to keep your wing away from your foil or other sharp objects on land or in the water.
  
  Wing technology draws heavily from inflatable traction kite design. In the short history of wingfoiling, wings have improved to the point that it is hard to find a BAD wing from a major company made in the last couple of years. I still believe we have a long way to go in wing technology, but for a beginner wingfoiler, there are some really good and cheap options to get started.
  
  PRO TIP: I DO NOT recommend buying a used wing. People are often trying to unload wings that are worn-out, leak air, or are outdated models for way too much money. You can find an excellent deal on close-out wings from 2022-2023 that are perfect beginner to intermediate wings. You will likely destroy or wear out your beginner wing before you outgrow it.
  
  MACkite introduced the 3 wing quiver close out packages which is an excellent way for a beginner to get a set of decent wings at an excellent price. At the time of writing this guide, the Freedom Foils 3-wing package is $899 for a 4, 5, and 6 meter (best choice for riders 90 kg or larger), and $799 for a 3, 4, and 5 meter (for riders under 90 kilos). These wings are absolutely fine to learn on and even do freestyle tricks or ride big waves. I would stay away from the Slingshot Dart package as that is a specialized wing that is not suitable for learning or most riders.
  
  Here is that link: MAC Kite 3 wing packages

WING TERMINOLOGY


Here is a basic overview of wing terminology / anatomy:

• LUFFING HANDLE - The handle used to hold the wing when riding waves or swell. Holding the luffing handle also completely depowers the wing and can be used to carry the wing on the beach by letting the wing fly behind you as you walk.

• LEADING EDGE - This is the "front" of the wing and the main structural support of the wing. The leading edge should ideally be very stiff once inflated to efficiently transfer wind power to the foil. The leading edge is made of high tensile strength synthetic fabrics (such as Dacron or more advanced and expensive fabrics) around a polyurethane inflatable bladder which keeps the wing light and prevents it from sinking.

• STRUT - The other inflatable bladder is held within the strut which is usually made of the same fabric as the leading edge. The strut acts like a boom on a sail and provides the other structural component of the wing and a place to attach the riding handles.

• RIDING HANDLES - The riding handles are either soft straps, hard handles, or a one piece boom used to hold onto and control the wing when riding under wind power. A lot of brands are now offering interchangeable handle systems.

• CANOPY - The canopy comprises the majority of the wing's surface area and acts as a sail. Usually canopies are made of rip-stop nylon, but we are starting to see newer composite materials to reduce stretching. Rips in the canopy are very common, but they are easily repaired with sail tape (and ideally a few stitches). Repairs in the canopy don't affect a wing's performance in any noticeable way. However, a loose and floppy canopy greatly affects a wing's performance and is one of the main reasons you should not buy used wings. Many wings also have plastic windows to allow a winger to see through the canopy. The effectiveness of these windows varies.

• INFLATION VALVE - Each wing brand has their own inflation valve system used to pump up the bladders. Some wings have a separate valve on the leading edge and the strut while most have a hose that connects the two bladders together allowing for a "one-pump" system. Make sure you have the right pump adapters when you buy your wing and pump.

SOFT OR HARD HANDLES OR BOOM?
This is probably the biggest decision you need to make when buying your first wing. In the end, it comes down to personal preference, but we'll discuss some pros and cons of each. As a beginner, it DOESN'T REALLY MATTER. There are many other factors like wing size, shape, and age that matter more. If in doubt, some of the new wings like Ocean Rodeos, F-One, and the new North allow interchangeable handles, but they are often expensive and so are the extra handles.




SOFT HANDLES


Soft handles were the standard for winging when most foilers were riding without a harness and using wings mostly to ride waves on foil.

EXAMPLES: F-One Swing, Ozone Wasp, AFS Wilf, and most early models from major brands.

PROS:

• Easy to hold onto without fatiguing forearms and hands

• Lightweight

• Usually cheaper

• Can pack up the wing very compactly

CONS:

• Less direct feel and control to the wing

• Some early wings had poor handle placement

Some brands such as Unifoil Pinion or AFS Wilf have a third soft handle between the two main riding handles which allows you to control the wing with one hand.


HARD HANDLES


When the Cabrina Mantis V1 came out with their semi-rigid handles, many riders, especially former windsurfers and kitesurfers, were immediately drawn to the added control and familiar form.

EXAMPLES: Cabrinha Mantis, North Mode, Duotone Unit

PROS:

• More direct connection to the strut and wing for better control

• Still can be packed tightly

• No mashing of hands into the strut

• More space to adjust hand placement

CONS:

• Lack of center handle prevents one-handed riding unless using a newer model hard handle with elongated front handle

• Benefits of hard handles possibly outweighed now by increase in boom models

BOOM


The classic boom wing designer in wingfoiling has been Duotone. The Slick SLS and DLABs are arguably some of the best wings around. Their wings come with a removable boom that allows the wing to be packed small and the use of only one boom for a quiver of wings. As of 2024 we are seeing many more manufacturers moving to boom models especially with the advent of freestyle moves like the Back Mobe.

EXAMPLES: Duotone Slick, Core Halo Pro, Ocean Rodeo (interchangeable boom option)

PROS:

• The most wing control possible

• Perfectly balanced one-handed riding

• Familiar feel to windsurfers

CONS:

• More arm grip fatigue depending on boom diameter

• Possibly heavier

• Harder to pack wing for traveling if boom is not removeable (and still have to pack the boom either way)

WINDOWS OR NOT?


Windows in a wing's canopy are a great idea, but unfortunately, they don't really work most of the time. It is very easy to crash into another foiler while winging because the canopy completely obstructs the downwind view. If a window is placed correctly and big enough, it offers the possibility you can look through it, but I have never found them useful. It is best to just get used to lifting up your wing and looking under it often and before any maneuvers or turns. Some new wings like Aqueous are completely see through, but this requires a heavier canopy made completely of plastic. At this point, I wouldn't choose a wing based on having or not having windows, but if it is a feature that you find important for added safety, choose a wing with large windows.


WING SIZE

Many wing brands have a wind range chart published on their websites to show a suggested range of wind speeds for a particular model and size wing. However, most of these charts do not take into account rider weight. I have put together a graph depicting a range of wind speeds for a certain size of wing while also taking into account rider weight as well. This graph is only a rough estimate, and many other factors come into play including wing design, board and foil size, rider skill level, steadiness of the wind, flat or rough water, and use of a harness. Click on the following image to see a full resolution version.

I only added three weight categories (using 90 kilograms as a middle point as it is my weight) for simplicity as the purpose of this graph is mostly to illustrate a point. As you can see on the graph, a 90 kilogram rider that lives somewhere with winds mostly in the 15-20 mph range would probably be best served by purchasing a 6m wing. On the other hand, a much lighter rider might be better off with a 5m, and a very large rider might be better served by a 7m or even an 8m!

When learning, it is definitely better to be a little overpowered as opposed to underpowered. NOT USING A BIG ENOUGH HAND WING is the number 1 problem I identify when new wingfoilers tell me they can not get on foil. If you live somewhere with light wind, especially if you are a heavier rider, do not buy anything smaller than 6m for your first wing, and you would likely be well-served by a 7m. On the other hand, if you are a smaller rider (maybe 160 pounds or so), and you live in the Bay Area or Hood River, even a 5m could be a handful on many days. But in general, you want to be learning in moderate winds (15-20mph) when the water is not too choppy and the wind not out of control, so I would recommend >90 kg riders get a 7m, 80-90 kg riders get a 6m, and riders under 80 kg get a 5 meter. Small women or children might need even smaller wings like a 4.5m depending on weight.

Unless you live somewhere like Maui with a very consistent thermal wind pattern, you will likely need a range of sizes. You can get a lot of range out of two wings, such as a 6m and a 4m, 5.5m and 3.5m, or 7m and 5m, but most dedicated wingfoilers will end up buying 3 or more wings in their quiver. That is why the 3 wing starter quivers from MACkite are such an appealing deal. As an added benefit, if you have a spouse or child that is a different weight, you'll likely be able to share the quiver. And if you take out a smaller wing when it is windy, you will extend the longevity of your big wings and not bag them out.

GIANT WINGS FOR GIANT PEOPLE


The F-One Strike CWC 8 meter wing was a groundbreaking design for big riders in light wind. The picture above is from me riding in very light winds in my Mountain Lakes road trip video on YouTube. The F-One 8m absolutely saved that trip and got me on foil on every light wind lake. When I first started riding the F-One 8.0, people told me I was crazy and that the wing was "too big." But as more and more large riders tested the wing, they came to the same conclusion as me... there is no better option for getting a large rider on foil than a well made big wing. Clinton Yap at ~250 pounds (and one of the best wave riders around) uses his 8.0 GoFoil wing in almost all conditions.

The F-One Strike CWC 8.0 is still the gold standard in big wings with it's patented 3 strut design. The wing is a pleasure to fly and even luffs better than many smaller wings when riding waves.


Duotone has licensed the technology and has an Aluula Ventis 8m wing which is very stiff and light, but comes with a hefty price tag. If you're a really big rider, don't shy away from one of these well made monster wings, but remember not all big wings are created equal. Make sure to go with the F-One or Ventis if you want to be safe, or ask in the forum about other brands. I've seen Luca V (F-One team rider) ride an 8m when he was 13 years old, so the argument that you have to be tall to use them doesn't hold up for me! It is harder to keep the wing tips out of the water though, so I would still recommend medium sized riders start with a 6m or 7m.

We are seeing many riders switch to downwind boards for light wind, but for a beginner to intermediate, having wind power makes all the difference in the world.

SO WHAT WING SHOULD I BUY AS A BEGINNER?
Like I said earlier, it's hard to go wrong with any wing made from a major brand in the last couple of years. I would focus on getting the right size (or sizes) and a good deal. If you do end up buying a used wing, PLEASE POST HERE FIRST and ask me or other forum members if the wing is a good choice and price. I've seen too many people get sold a bad, old wing for $500 and then have to go out and buy another wing. Also ask the seller how many sessions the wing has had and if it holds air. I recommend when you buy a used wing having the seller pump the wing up and leaving it for an hour to make sure it isn't leaking. Finding a leak and repairing it can be a major hassle.

I'll give a few options here of wings I think are good for learning:

• Cabrinha Mantis: Preferably V2 or newer, but V1 is totally fine to learn on if you can get one really cheap. Cabrina Vision is okay. I find the leading edge too floppy on the 2023 model, but the added dihedral makes keeping the wing tips out of the water easier when learning.
• F-One Strike 2023 Strike or CWC Strike Closeout. Very friendly wings to learn on that preform well for more advanced riding as well.
• Takoon V2 or newer. Similar to F-One but cheaper.
• AFS Wilf. Very friendly wing to learn on. Not really for advanced riding.
• Duotone Slick, Slick SLS, or Unit. These are in my opinion some of the best wings. They require a little more input from the rider, but you will never outgrow these.
• North Mode or newer model North Nova.
• Eleveight WFS or GT One+
• Takuma Tanji
• Core XC
• Slingshot V3 or newer
• Freedom Foils package (Probably the best deal out there.)
• Unifoil Pinion (Contact The Foil Shop and you might be able to get a really good price.)
• Any Ensis wing
• and so on...

Like I said. There's a lot of really good options for beginner wings out there. If you have any questions about specific wings, your best bet is to just ask me here!